Tuscany to Rome
We awoke from our wonderland Tuscan pad and after a great shower, headed over to the Tourist Info to inquire about wine tasting tours, which were impossible, unless you rented a mode of transport. There were some small medieval villages, wine areas, vineyards and so nearby, which I was game to see, but boyfriend wanted rather to head understandably to Rome, his main reason for coming to Italy besides me. So we packed and quickly caught the 11 a.m. bus to Firenze, then had a wait for the train to Rome.
While we were waiting to get a refund on one ticket, so I could use my rail pass, and I was lucky boyfriend was so patient to stand in all those lines. Meanwhile, I decided to call pensions in Rome to start making a reservation. Luckily, the second one I called, Hotel Primavera was full, but the owner was a very kind lady Serena, and she offered me another place to stay at a house, for only 90,000 Lire, instead of 170,000 Lire. She gave me directions to meet her at her work, including the notorious Bus 64 plagued by pickpockets and gipsys, and we were ready to invade Rome.
This time, the train was a very modern, fast, and empty train – so we were lucky and happy. We opened a bottle of white Chianti from the town of Montipulciano where I had intended to go, and boyfriend read about Rome, while I, “prepared for the attack of the Gypsies.” I put everything in my pull bag and my wallet in my underpants. Crazy but effective.
When we arrived at Termini, we got a map and went right over to buy our bus tickets at the Tabac (which boyfriend had to do earlier while the entire bus waited for us – unbeknownst to us, we were suppose to buy tickets at “La Cantina”). We got on Bus 64 and were following the map when we realized we missed the Piazza Navona, so we got off and walked back in the hot sun, boyfriend trudging along with his heavy pack. We found the place with a beautiful stone entryway, a nice elevator, marble stairs, and elegant rooms.
Serena greeted us like an old friend, “Ciao!” She asked us what we would like to drink (Pineapple juice) while explaining that she had another hour before she could leave work. So we were her guests for one hour, sitting in the blue room with airy high ceilings, huge gold gilted mirrors, and she showed us pictures of her recent visit to America, New Jersey. Then she called a taxi and took us to the house, upstairs in a huge building, also with marble stairs and an elegant old lift.
The room and bathroom were in their house and it felt like staying in someone’s apartment. She also gave us a map.
We rested and wandered out along the Tiber River bank, where it was very noisy, polluted, and dirty. Boyfriend was disappointed and had wanted to take nicer, quieter side streets. We saw the Palace of Justice, which is now a parking garage, and decided to head over to the Piazza di Espagna where the heart of Rome is. That we did, walked up and down amidst the Frankenstein-shoed and tie-dyed intellects, then started searching for a place to eat. After actually sitting outside and then inside Hofbrau Hause, we settled upon another choice, where the man was still sitting at an outside table so we ended up at “i numeri” steak house/creperie which turned out to be excellente!!
It was so nice, but the music a little too loud and boyfriend was already pushed to the edge by the loud scooters everywhere and the carbon fumes, so he asked the waiter to please turn down the music and bring a beer! I was a little surprised, but also insisted he bring the beer first to settle boyfriend’s nerves and then we could look at the wine list and the menu!
We had a heavenly meal. I was upgraded from a mushroom filled ravioli with a rosy sauce, to the “truffle king of mushrooms” sauce; and boyfriend was upgraded to the “fresh homemade pasta…” both of which turned out to be excellent!! Then we had grilled veggies with salt and olive oil and shared a bottle of nice Chianti Classico. For dessert we split a Cream & Bailey’s big crepe!! We were well fed and inspired to return by both the wonderful fare and the friendly accommodating waiter.
Monday, 14 June 1990

