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China First Impressions 

Today was a Women’s Day. Luise, ich, Mrs. W. and Sophia drove along a wide, crazily traffic-converging with bicycles from all directions, painting and construction, and spraying water from above bridges- road.

We first ran through a heavy downpour of rain into the Friendship Store – A seven level store filled with antiques, Chinese jewelry including jade, pearls, tortoiseshell (real and not that expensive), ivory, cinnabar, and everything from Shanghai t-shirts, to hand painted from-the-inside traditional snuff bottles; to wall hangings, nice rugs, cashmere sweaters, silk fabrics to have custom tailored into whatever suits your fancy; embroidery, dolls, statues, tea sets, vases, clothing factory mishmash, cashmere long coats for $200, and on and on. Some prices were good; others (pearls, cashmere) were expensive.

There were so many employees “working” in the store, it was the most striking aspect. There were about five people people for every 20 square feet. Some were helpful, some would follow, so,e were artisans trying to demonstrate and sell a craft; others were sweeping, rebuilding cabinets,or standing around and talking. It was a real zoo of Chinese workers.

On the way there (to the Friendship Store) we saw workers sleeping under the bridges during their break from construction. They had straw mats and soup bowls. We also saw a man riding a scooter in his pajamas (because that’s the coolest fabric he has) and women riding bicycles wearing shawls against the sun.

The bund was impressive and a mixed array of architectural styles. The actual downtown sky scrapers and high rises seem to stretch on all over the place. All along the waterfront and farther is skyscraper action that doesn’t stop. Some are still being built, construction has stopped, and many stand empty due to the Asian financial crisis last year, scaring off a lot of foreign investors. But they (investors) are gradually coming back, as tourism is again increasing.

A new large convention center has just been built and opened, due to host its first convention this month, on “China – The Next 50 Years,” sponsored by Fortune Magazine.

Our next stop was a (grocery) market where all the familiar American brands and some new Australian, as well as German and Chinese brands were prevalent. There were also some tortilla chips made in Belgium 🇧🇪. It made me feel like at home again, seeing such familiar and missed brands. They also had a good selection of Swiss and German Ritter Chocolates. (Also Ocean Spray, Snapple, Jell-O brand, Hershey’s…)

We next ventured to the Hilton (88 stories high) and happened upon the Austrian Food and Beverage manager who Mrs. W. knows, who comped us the wonderful “Tea Time” buffet. We had sushi, dim sum, and a great selection of petite-fours made by the Austrian pastry chef. This is also “the place” to buy good Austrian bread she tells us…and buys.

There is also an American Center here with Tony Roma’s, Hard Rock Cafe, Louis Vittan shop, all the normal Beverly Hills type of boutiques and some Chinese ones thrown in for good measure too.

Sophia was happy, as they treated her like a princess and gave her balloons, and people even sang Happy Birthday to her!

The drive home was also as interesting as the drive there. As we passed all the little open street shops run by families who live in the one-room shack behind their wares. Luise said that families often sleep on their mats in their restaurants after closing hours.

 

Sunday 15 August, 1999

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