Next we did continue on a circuitous route, passing many schöne cafes (Franz Kafka, Maxmillion…) on the way following dad, to find the famed Jewish Cemetery. Mom and I managed to dart into a few gift shops along the way, however as dad paused to look for a street name and translate our next move, from the taped map.

The Jewish Cemetery in Prague

Lo and behold, once we got there, they were charging admittance to see the Jewish graves. Awful how they can make money off people who are six feet under! Mom and I refused this luxury tax and bought postcards instead (the cheapest ones I’ve seen). It had been Hitler’s intention to make this Jewish ghetto an Erie bizarre Exotic Exhibit of the Extinct Race, which is the only reason why it’s so perfectly preserved today.

We took a round about way of getting to St. James, then also they’re incidentally finding a discrete hard-to-find restaurant recommended “The Red Wheel”, without any problem for mom and I, while dad toiled over getting us to the St. Agnus Church. We passed a couple synagogues on the way, and were disappointed to find that the permanent collection we wanted to see there, was temporarily closed for July.

On the way, we sauntered around some Prague blocks of old houses stately mixed next to newly built ones, all covered by shade trees.

So instead we next made a ring around town, passing by some new old churches- one tiny church out of the way, which was surprisingly Baroque and pretty inside, well decorated pastels and golden cherubs flitting over all the walls. We proceeded on to the Tyn Church, my very favorite from the outside, and went in to have a look. Our Lady of Tyn.

After that we sat down outside at a café, mom and I had Eis Cafés and dad had a parfait. We listened to four Americans next to us- the parents from Irvine and son with in-law based in Germany 🇩🇪.

Finding Directions in Prague

Then I headed off from Tesco where we all were together – a very crowded Tesco- to look for the Internet cafe. I asked a guy at the flower stand and he would have had me heading up to the third floor of Tesco for computer equipment. He once again didn’t understand, but was trying hard to be helpful – even leaving his post to point out the way. I thanked him heartily and went on my way, trying not to let him see that I was going in another direction!

Finally I figured out where it was, through the Arcade, and I emailed boyfriend, Tom, Anj and Reneé with Prague Message. It was only Americans, the typical loud ones there too. Then I met mom and dad (who had gone and had a beer or two whilst I emailed! Can you imagine?) back at the hotel for dinner.

I think this was the night we went to eat at the “Ryk” Place close to the Charles Bridge that Jan and Jim had recommended and we passed several times. The waitresses were all very friendly and efficient like in America; really the best and most American service we had experienced in Prague!! We were sure they had even lived in the states or in London, to speak such fluent friendly comfortable English and to joke around with us, serve well, and start us off with a drink!

The one waitress even asked if mom and I were sisters, which made us happy. It was a fun evening. In the meantime, during our pre-dinner drinks, I ran over across the corner to see if the crystal shop there, open during renovation had the one little vase I didn’t buy earlier for only 150 crowns. Unfortunately they didn’t or if they did it was covered up. I should have learned by now to buy it when you see it, especially when it is so cheap! But I figured I would buy enough in China 🇨🇳, which probably is correct too.

Shopping and Eating

We all had excellent meals. I forget now what we ordered, but the pasta was fresh, ala dente, the sauces were excellent and the taste very avant guard modern down to the presentation. I would highly recommend it. As would we all!

On the way to the restaurant, we were able to pass the T-shirt shop, which had the one I was wanting. We were determined to spend all of our crowns before leaving the country tomorrow.

After the dinner Thursday night we headed back over Charles Bridge, winding our way around through a park and past narrow cobblestone streets to the theater where we were to see the Folk Costume Show! We ended up having dad ask a couple waiters standing outdoors (where I said he didn’t really know either and was just trying to be helpful).

Also we followed a group of German tourists unterwegs with a Czech guide. We entered the corner (National?) Theater, smaller than the big National Theater and climbed up stairs to a relatively small wooden room with set-up chairs packed full of tourists. It was really great! The dancers performed in changes of traditional costume for each regions dance. We photoed them all! It was super! Even the musicians played so well, including an unusual animal skin instrument called a “Do-Dah” of which there are only a few in the world 🌎. He held it under his arm like a bagpipe.

Also a sort of open piano string instrument traditional to Czech. In the intermission I took care of getting the Becherova shots for all three of us. We bought a cassette for grandma and grandpa and all held arms around each other on the way home over the Charles Bridge admiring the view and the beautiful time together!

Cafe Convict in Prague

After we arrived back at the hotel Cloister Inn we met Franco, as planned, to give him “the book” and to have a beer at the Café Convict (where mom and dad were earlier incidentally). We went downstairs where it was a little more calm and civilized. There we sat at a nice table and downed, sipped a couple more “malé pivos” and we used up our last remaining crowns which we were setting in the middle of the table.

By 22:00 we were all met up and left Convict Cafe by 23:30 to get in bed. Franco was wearing his hidden microphone on his belt, so we were still covered by the Chinese delegation.

 

Thursday 27 May 1999