The trip to Bratislava was relatively uneventful. In between leaving the hotel and getting our train, we sat in the park for a while on the new benches.
When we arrived in Bratislava however, “the book” said we could take Tram 1 to the Centrum (town center) and find the Penzion Chez David. We had a slight difficulty figuring out where the trams ran from, and I asked a guy. It was so funny. “Sprechen Sue Deutsch oder English?” (Do you speak German or English?)
He, “No.”
Me, “Daquem.” (Thank you.) Then he comes up and does “International Language.” I showed him the street we wanted and he said in English, “Maybe Tram 3 or 5.”
Translating Directions
Michael had less luck, as the girl he asked didn’t speak any English. Funny enough, he always tries English first, and I always try German. So we fumbled our way to where the trams were, underneath the bus platform and took #3, which came along first. I couldn’t locate any of the streets on the map that I’d pulled out of the book.
After about five stops, I said, “Well at least we’re traveling in the right direction, we’re heading north.” As I had seen a sign for Modra, a town north of Bratislava. Then Michael says, “No. We need to head south to the centrum.”
So I chose a lady to ask. Stepping off the tram, she said she didn’t know but referred us to another lady. That lady said in Czech -or Slovak rather (which Michael deciphered the numbers) that we needed to get off five tram stops back, and change trams. We think that’s what she said.
Just to be sure, we decided to go back to the train station and do it all again, taking Tram #1. On the way however, we got off and noticed maps at the tram stops and were able to catch Tram #1 to the main square by the Old Town. (Makes sense in retrospect.) There we rather easily managed to find our way to the hotel- after arguing about going right or left. We were both thinking the same direction, but calling it something else. (In retrospect I was most likely wrong.)
Finding Café Mayer
Our quarters were clean and simple. No breakfast or dinner, as the Kosher restaurant was closed for Shabbat Friday evening and Saturday morning. Not a big deal. We went straight into town and explored the Old Town. Really it was quite nice! Immediately we discovered a Viennese style Café Mayer. Bratislava is known for its cafés. Sitting outside, we were approached by Gypsy kids- as we also were at the tram and bus stop earlier. But that was all. I shooed them away.
At the café, we couldn’t just have one pastry, they all looked too good! Each of us devoured two pieces of cake 🍰, two cappuccinos, and a mineral water. It came to 400 SK, or about $10.00 total. The capps were really good! All around us in the central square were renovated buildings, a baroque style church, a booth selling roasted chestnuts 🌰, and a line of craft souvenir booths.
Towards evening, the booths were gradually overrun by 14 year-olds. Just as my book 📖 said!
After our coffee break, we walked around, window shopped, restaurant peeked, and tried to kill time before dinner- as well as work up an appetite. Some restaurants were closed since today was a national holiday.
Air Raids Continue in Kosovo
Walking past the State Theater, I was excited to spot the American flag. Walking closer however, we noticed a small gathering of people, and Slovak guards around the U.S. Embassy. Seemed to be a silent protest, but I was freaked out mildly enough to not want to walk by. We ended up going back to the hotel to freshen up and watch CNN just in time for President Clinton’s speech.
After discussing Clinton’s new announcement to continue the air raids, we perused possible developments (of war breaking out across Europe). After sharing our personal survival strategies if an emergency should arise, we got back to the business of finding a restaurant of Slovak cuisine.
Inspired Travellers
On our earlier round, we had met a very nice, older American couple, probably in their 60’s-70’s. We were happy to meet them again, coming out of the traditional Slovak restaurant. Boy, were they incredible! They’d traveled 🧳 all over the world 🌍 on a shoestring; finding places to stay, just upon arrival in a town. They were even in Kosice!
Having lived all over the U.S. including San Diego- on Clairemont Drive no less! (That’s right by my high school.) We talked with them, out in front of the restaurant for half an hour. So inspiring to see and hear of such an older couple’s adventure stories.
Too Late for Dessert
When we finally went into the restaurant, the pianist was still playing, and a waiter pushed the drink cart on us immediately. Then we were pretty much left on our own. We both had the killer best homemade pierogi with spinach and cheese filling. They were killer! I also tried a Tokay wine, and we drank the Zlty Bzant beer 🍺 (Golden Pheasant).
Alas, we were too late for dessert, as the manager was already showing us out. We asked what time they closed, and he pointed at his watch (22:45) and said 23:00. Okay buddy, we got the drift. Then too he proceeded to stare at us over the table, while we counted out the money for the bill. I said, “Do you want a tip or not?” He didn’t understand. As they bade us goodbye at the door, I yelled “See ya later, alligator!” We were amused.
